Saras Bike

– Discovering the World

The beauty of a sunrise and danish food

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22. February – 13. March 2016
Thailand

I was lucky to see this amazing sunset more than once. And I owe it all to Anita and Erik, who I met on the boat earlier. They had invited me to stay a few days in their house. What a luxury for me, a free place to stay and the company of two lovely people to share trips to the beach and dinners with. Anita and Erik lives in the other end of Denmark than I, but we soon found out that we where closer than we thought. It turned out, that Anita’s brother lives in the same town as I, and my parents know him. Imagine to meet two strangers on a small boat in Thailand and then find out that your families know each other. It was funny and crazy. What also was funny was to listen to Erik´s stories from the time he was working around the world, and it was a perfect match to hear tales as the sun went down. The icing on the cake at my little visit to Anita and Erik was, in addition to the warm welcome and many wonderful talks about everything between heaven and earth, that they had home-baked bread and Danish imported cheese and butter. When you are away from home for a long time, it is quite inevitable that there are certain things you will miss. For me, it is especially cheese and bread, which is in short supply here in Asia.
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Mere end én gang fik jeg lov til at nyde denne fantastiske solnedgang. Det gjorde jeg fordi Anita og Erik, som jeg mødte på båden, havde inviteret mig til at bo nogle dage i deres hus på øen Koh Lanta. Hold nu op en luksus og forkælelse jeg blev mødt med imens jeg var der. Det var en fryd at slippe den danske tunge løs igen, imens vi dasede på stranden eller var ude at spise. Anita og Erik bor i den anden ende af landet end jeg, men vi fandt hurtigt ud af at det danske kongerige alligevel ikke var så stort endda. Det viste sig bl.a. at Anitas bror bor i samme by som jeg, og at mine forældre kender ham. At sidde på den anden side af jorden med et dansk ægtepar, som man tilfældigvis har mødt på en lille båd i Thailand, og så finde ud af vores familier kender hinanden, var altså slet ikke til at forstå. Men hvad jeg til gengæld kunne forstå, var at Erik havde haft et langt arbejdsliv rundt om i verden, og det var et perfekt match at høre en røverhistorie eller to imens solen gik ned. Prikken over i´et ved mit lille besøg hos Anita og Erik var, udover den varme velkomst og mange skønne snakke om alt mellem himmel og jord, at de have hjemmebagt rugbrød og dansk importeret ost og smør. Når man er så længe væk hjemmefra, så er det ganske uundgåeligt, at der er visse ting man kommer til at savne. For mit vedkommende er det især ost og rugbrød, som er en mangelvare her i Asien.

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After Koh Lanta I went to Krabi. On the way into town, I met a bunch of local cyclists who I inquired about a hotel. They showed me to a small family run hotel in the city, and when we had agreed about the price, I checked in. On the way out to find dinner, I saw the Danish word “Nyhavn” on the wall opposite the hotel. I crossed the road, to find out what kind of place it was. It turned out to be a Danish / Thai-owned restaurant that had been here since the 80s. Although I was skeptical about the quality of Danish food made on the other side of the world, and that I usually think it’s ridiculous to eat Danish food when the local food is so delicious, I decided to order potato salad with meatballs. Just because I couldn´t help myself. The food was surprisingly good, and after many months on the road, it was a joy again to eat potatoes. I love potatoes, so it was a welcome change among all the rice and noodle dishes.
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Fra Kho Lanta cyklede jeg til Krabi. På vej ind til byen mødte jeg en flok lokale cyklister, som jeg forhørte om overnatningsmuligheder. De henviste mig til et lille familiedrevet hotel inde i byen, og da vi var blevet enige om prisen, checkede jeg ind. På vej ud for at finde aftensmad, så jeg det genkendelige ord “Nyhavn” på husvæggen overfor hotellet. Jeg krydsede vejen, for at finde ud af hvad det var for et sted. Det viste sig, at være en dansk/thailandsk ejet restaurant, som havde været her siden engang i 80érne. Omend jeg var skeptisk overfor kvaliteten af dansk mad lavet på den anden side af jorden og at jeg normalt synes det er latterligt at spise dansk mad, når den lokale mad er så lækker, så besluttede jeg alligevel at bestille en gang kartoffelsalat med frikadeller. Maden var overraskende god, og efter mange måneder på landevejen, så var det en fryd igen at spise kartofler. Jeg elsker kartofler, så det var en kærkommen forandring i blandt alle ris- og nuddel retterne.

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On “Nyhavn” I heard that there this weekend was a jazz festival outside Krabi. Since I have a slight loveaffair with the annual Riverboat Jazz Festival in Silkeborg, I thought it would be nice to see what a jazz festival in Thailand  would be like. Full of optimism for what to come, I couldn´t stop thinking about all the good times with my friends at the jazz festival in my hometown. The jazz festival back home has a very cozy vibe and atmosphere. From every coffee shop or backyard, you can hear the diverse jazz tones just waoting for you to come and join the party. It is very nice, and if you ever happens to be in Silkeborg around the festival you should diffently go! Here in Thailand there was one huge stage near the water’s edge. The scenario was beautiful, but the same I did not feel for the music or the armosphere, that mostly reminded me of a market and a place where you could take a selfie. But what I thought they lacked in atmosphere they diffently got the part about food right. There was a lot of food stalls filled with goodies that you could take with you, and have a picnic on the beach.
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På “Nyhavn” hørte jeg, at der denne weekend var en jazz festival udenfor Krabi. Da jeg har en lille forkærlighed for den årlige Riverboat Jazzfestival i Silkeborg, tænkte det var da værd at høre hvad de kunne her i landet. Fuld af optimisme cyklede jeg afsted, imens jeg sendte en masse tanker hjem til de forgangne jazzfestivaller i hjembyen. Stemningen og stedet hvor scenen var sat, var som forventeligt ikke at sammenligne med den hyggelige stemning fra Riverboat. Hvor man fra hver en café eller baggård, hører de forskellig artede jazz toner lokke dig ind fra gaden. Her i Thailand var der én kæmpe stor scene stillet op tæt på vandkanten. Scenariet var smukt, men det samme følte jeg ikke for musikken eller stemningen, der mest mindede mig om markedsdage og opstillede tingester, hvor man kunne tage en selfie. Til gengæld var madboderne fyldt med lækkerier, som man kunne tage med på stranden.

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The jazz festival was not a great success for me, so I therefore decided to continue cycling and make another dream come true. To find a temple where I could stay overnight. I had thought about it so many times, and heard others stories about it. And now it was time to see what it was all about. So I found a random temple on the map and cycled off. Okay, I must admit that I found a few temples along the way before I did an attempt before I dared go and ask. I mean, how do you do it? You just go knocking on the templedoor? When the day was about to run out I set everything in on the last temple.
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Jazz festivalen var ikke den store succes for mig, så jeg besluttede derfor at cykle videre og kaste mig ud i en anden lille drøm. At finde et temple hvor jeg  kunne overnatte. Jeg havde tænkt så længe på det, og hørt andres oplevelser med at overnatte i et tempel, at nu ville jeg altså se hvad det var for noget. Jeg udså mig et tilfældigt tempel på kortet og cyklede af sted. Okay, jeg må indrømme at jeg udså mig et par stykker, men jeg havde åbenbart lige brug for at tage et par tilløb. For hvordan kommer man lige til at overnatte i et tempel? Banker man bare på tempeldøren? Da dagen var ved at rinde ud sat jeg alt ind på det sidste temple.

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Saras Bike

I could see the golden tower from road. It was like a lighthouse in the jungle. Now I just had to find my way to it. But the question was; how to find it? And then I meet these beautiful girls and women, who showed me the way to the temple. Encouraged by their kindness and happy smile, I said goodbye and pulled my bike into the temple ground, crossed my fingers that I would find some monks when I entered. The temple area was huge, one of the largest I had seen so far. After a few minutes gazing at the big temple I saw two monks walking towards me. I approached them and after some sign language and a  phone call I was allowed to put my tent up on the temple area.
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Ude fra landevejen kunne jeg se det gyldne tårn. Det stod som et fyrtårn i midten af junglen som om det viste mig vejen. Nu vidste jeg hvertfald at der lå et tempel et sted derinde. Spørgsmålet var bare hvordan jeg fandt det. Men det skulle vise sig at være gansket nemt, da disse skønne piger og damer tilfældigvis kom forbi og viste mig vejen. Opmuntret af deres venlighed og glade smil, trak jeg cyklen ind på tempelområdet, og krydsede fingre for at jeg ville finde nogle munke derinde. Tempelområdet var et af de største jeg har set, så jeg brugte lige et par minutter til at opsuge det hele. Imens jeg stod og tænkte på hvordan jeg skulle finde nogen herinde, tilsmilede mit held mig endnu engang, da der lidt efter kom to munke gående. Efter lige tegnsprog, pegen og smilen resultede det efter, lidt telefon opkald, at jeg måtte slå mit telt op på tempel området.

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This was my accommodation for the night. You can almost see the tent at the end of stairs, behind the little iron door. From here I could see and hear the monks praying in the temple next door. It was a very nice experience.
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Det her blev min bolig for natten. Man kan svagt skimte teltet for enden af trappen, bag lågen. Herfra kunne jeg se og høre munkenes messe i templet ved siden af. Det var en meget speciel oplevelse, at få lov til at se hvad der sker efter “lukketid”.

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This statue was so incredible large. Just look at the little dog that sits below the head of the snake.
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Denne statue var så ufattelig stor. Se blot den lille hund, som sidder lige under slangens hoved.

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The next morning I was up at 5am and packed all my belongings. To experience the temple in a sunrise was one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. In this picture I have tried to capture what it was I saw and felt.
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Næste morgen var jeg oppe kl 5 og pakkede mine ting sammen. At opleve templet i en solopgang var noget af det mest smukke, jeg længe har set. På dette billede har jeg prøvet at fange hvad det var jeg så og følte. 

Saras Bike

A few days after the sunrise at the temple, I had found me another little gem. A small bamboo hut by the ocean. The sunrise here was like a dream. I can not count how many times I’ve dreamed about staying in a small bamboo hut on the beach.
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Et par dage efter solopgangen i templet, havde jeg fundet mig en anden lille perle. En lille bambus hytte i vandkanten. Solopgangen her var som en drøm. Jeg har ikke tal på, hvor mange gange jeg har drømt mig hen til en lille bambus hytte på en strand.

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After all the beautiful sunrises along the east coast of Thailand, I loaded my bike on the train. A new adventure was around the corner, and it should take its beginning in Bangkok.
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Efter alle de flotte solopgange langs østkysten i Thailand, læssede jeg cyklen på toget. Et nyt eventyr lå om hjørnet, og det skulle tage sin begyndelse i Bangkok.

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3 Comments

  1. Dejligt at du har det strålende, gode foto som vi glæder os over her hjemme. Ønsker dig efotsat god rejse.

  2. I admire you and thing what are you doing.

  3. I love grilling sandwiches (hello paninis!) and all sorts of veggies, especially asparagus! Add a little lemon juice and zest, salt and pepper, and you’ve got yourself a perfect vegetable ?

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